科学穿衣贴:怎么样才是一条完美的裤子?

每次看到街拍里好看的腿,就隔着屏幕酸成一个柠檬精。虽说要挑到一条真正写着自己名字的裤子,试衣镜才是检验的唯一标准,可是编辑今天帮你看了眼,发现优秀的裤子……都有一些共通的“闪光点”!

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对比起自己只存在于美图工具里的腿长,影视剧里的那些女主们仅靠一条长裤就开挂的气场着实令人羡慕。T台上的腿精们就更加扎心了。同样是穿裤子,有些人套个麻袋都是两米八,而有些人绞尽脑汁还是在五五身的迷局里徘徊。

难道没有筷子腿小鸟腿,就注定是个裤子终结者吗?

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别丧气,事实上,许多时尚博主们的腿也并没有你们想象得那么完美,大家遇到的显胖显高的问题,她们也会遇到。但不同的是,那些被达人们挑走的裤子,都是有暗藏玄机的!

以下内容不涉及裹身类的裤子,怕大象腿的姑娘们可以放心食用~

首先,“裤腰”就有大讲究

拿起一件裤子先得看裤腰过不过关。现在许多品牌都会贴心地在商标上打上“低腰”、“中腰”、“高腰”。大部分人都会比较青睐“高腰”,但这到底是为什么呢?

对症下药↓

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其实,“高腰”的关键并不在“高”,而是在“腰”。比如上图的这条裤子,腰线很高,但整体线条比较僵直。这种裤子或许在滤镜、搭配的弥补下能在及格线上低空飘过,但如果没有外力撑着,一般人上身会显得笨重而生硬。

所以,“高腰”的目的并不是一味跟风,为了显腿长而显腿长。“高腰”的作用其实是突出腰和胯的线,就是“该有腰的地方有腰,该有胯的地方有胯”。为什么90年代的妈妈裤如此风靡?其实就是这样一种流畅的弧度感。

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优秀的高腰裤会在凸显腿部曲线的基础之上,给人一种轻盈、自然的感觉。它的核心一定是“既有腰又有胯”,不需要很紧身。像上图中的两款,适当的空间感更有时髦力。

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和高腰裤最完美的搭档一定是能塞进腰头的针织衫、打底衫。充分展示上半身的纤细和下半身的线条,这种身材比例人人可以拥有,和身高没有关系。

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或者可以学这边的博主利用一根腰带打造高腰线。冬季的连体裤搭配省时省心,同色系本就一气呵成耐看养眼,加上黄金分割的小蛮腰和S型曲线,得来全不费功夫。

第二,要看裤脚

裤腿也是制胜关键!因为它将直接决定你的腿到底有多长/腿型有多瘦。而且冬末春初大家最长穿的就是大衣厚风衣,很多时候就露一个小腿。如果裤脚不过关,整体就会降分。

直线盐系的裤子要长长长

因为如果不够长,就会立刻显腿短↓

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来一组简单粗暴的对比图。同样的中高腰直筒裤,左图中“短掉一截”,哪怕瞪着五厘米高跟鞋,效果就是不如右图来得赏心悦目。

所以,阔腿裤直筒裤,要的就是长长长长……就算是灯芯绒面料不宜曳地,起码也要长过脚踝,才能让直线条带来的盐系风格发挥到位。

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而诸如西装裤这类垂顺型的直筒裤,就可以大胆地选择长一截的。搭配廓形长大衣和细跟高跟鞋,那种所向披靡的征服力要多少有多少。

而烟管妈妈型的就要收收收……

同样地,因为如果不收,就会立刻显拖沓↓

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向来烟管裤深得人心,因为它不似铅笔裤对腿型要求极高,又不似阔腿裤略带招摇。烟管裤利落显瘦,但它也有自己的核心要点,就是裤脚一定要在九分位置完美收住,如右图。

要是没收住,也一定要卷起来。卷起来的烟管裤能去掉正经气,尤其是牛仔款,落拓大方,很有休闲自在的扫街欲。

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烟管裤非常适合搭配长过膝的外套,因为裤脚在九分的位置会收,露出的脚踝可以格外显腿长。这时搭配一双长袜或是皮靴,那种简约而轻熟的风格便油然而生了!

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最后,优秀的裤子一定要搭配一双过关的鞋子

就像牛奶配咖啡,郎才配女貌,下装搭配除了主角长裤,作为配角的鞋履也发挥着相当的作用。为了风度温度两不误,以上所说的裤子在搭配时,一定要选一双有棱角的鞋子

尖头靴

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尖头靴精致而细巧,尤其是与高腰直筒长裤组合在一起时,仿佛自带女魔头bgm。如果不想显得特立独行,可以选择叠穿,降低霸气指数。

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如果是高腰妈妈裤,那么尖头短靴可以帮你显得更加成熟自信。除了真皮款,麂皮、漆皮也都可以考虑,模糊年龄感,走哪儿都是一枚少女。


方头靴

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同样是有棱有角,方头靴就比尖头靴来得规矩些。但它仍然是裤装最佳CP之一,因为一旦你的上衣稍有个性,它能让你的衣品在芸芸众生中大放异彩。比如披肩、皮衣和收腿裤,走路生风!

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课代表总结时间:非小鸟腿族一键成为“腿精”的公式如下↓

有流畅线条的高腰+长直筒/九分烟管+有棱角的靴子=完美腿型

话已至此,请结合试衣镜,开启你的裤装大戏!



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