敢让老佛爷称为“全新香奈儿”的,是什么样的存在?

大秀结束,设计师气定神闲地走上T台谢幕的瞬间,指点江山般的气场让人感叹:真是铁打的专业素养。可这幕后的匆忙和“失控瞬间”,你见过吗?

老佛爷“气”到开怼工匠?

各位应该见多了“扑克脸”的老佛爷Karl Lagerfeld,尤其是人前那副胸有成竹的淡定模样。但是,人总有七情六欲,少不了生气的时候,比如在堪比学生上考场前的秀前准备:

[image id='22d4e59e-987a-4a4f-8711-46fed885397b' mediaId='b5008148-44e2-42dd-8d99-f410a1edd024' align='center' size='small' share='false' caption='' expand='' crop='original'][/image]

[image id='a7897d58-0dab-4c7f-8c17-ecbdbfefd2f5' mediaId='17fa5126-8d68-4d55-af2e-7bd5ea262bca' align='center' size='small' share='false' caption='' expand='' crop='original'][/image]

[image id='bc01c0c1-cb4d-4266-be39-6517983a7cd0' mediaId='dc51c28f-a9e9-455f-bf65-0d227b22c973' align='center' size='small' share='false' caption='' expand='' crop='original'][/image]

不用怀疑自己的眼睛。

这些都是老佛爷Karl在香奈儿2018春夏高级定制系列发布之前(一年前)所说的话,来源于NETFLIX新推出的网络纪录片“7 DAYS OUT”(《七日之前》),讲述几大主要领域大事件发生前7天里的真实记录。

[image id='1b0a825c-13b8-451e-bc31-a5eade73398c' mediaId='86a91347-872c-4fac-8ae6-bdcda52cd1b6' align='center' size='small' share='false' caption='' expand='' crop='original'][/image]

[image id='a679d39e-8b1a-4958-9c98-6ed5a5a6eb74' mediaId='a0583c83-0b76-4a30-b089-ba962223b54e' align='center' size='small' share='false' caption='' expand='' crop='original'][/image]

时间一天天倒数,离大秀发布的日期越来越近……工坊的首席和工匠们都相当焦虑。各种“节外生枝”都可能会影响整场大秀的发布。

[image id='7ba30e67-aac0-4983-861a-a2b0b07e42d2' mediaId='d458854d-75ce-47c4-857a-4835eecb174a' align='center' size='small' share='false' caption='' expand='' crop='original'][/image]

喏,被自称为“普通工薪阶层”的老佛爷各种diss的,就是工匠们在制作高定礼服的过程中所发生的一些“插曲”。

[image id='af267452-f8fe-4f8e-b9d4-1370a54c759e' mediaId='f427d294-7ffd-4c81-b3de-cb40489f556a' align='center' size='small' share='false' caption='' expand='' crop='original'][/image]

当然,在接受了Karl的评价和意见后,工坊首席和工匠们还是制作出了令人满意的作品。

[image id='7ad3e4a8-3cdc-4991-b526-34252c699e29' mediaId='ea6e914e-290d-4eec-911b-e7b9e39e11c2' align='center' size='small' share='false' caption='' expand='' crop='original'][/image]

[image id='d3a0ead4-e1fc-4526-8752-169530a4a8ab' mediaId='7ef6886c-4c5f-49e0-8abd-38cfbae7e331' align='center' size='small' share='false' caption='' expand='' crop='original'][/image]

正如纪录片中所言,高级定制,从不是为“胆小之人”准备的。

[image id='45af696b-9997-4b8e-bcfb-3402f44d58b6' mediaId='0c2491b2-4563-4b4d-b5b2-0fe8d2768fad' align='center' size='small' share='false' caption='' expand='' crop='original'][/image]

无论你是工匠、模特还是看客,都必须清楚,这是时装界的至高殿堂——拥有百年历史的香奈儿高级定制。

[image id='e4dfa315-0558-43a6-acdf-d0c190d7feeb' mediaId='e430796d-d996-4699-a4b3-f6fcbb1b2500' align='center' size='small' share='false' caption='' expand='' crop='original'][/image]

老佛爷这回还会“怼”人吗?

那么一年后,在刚刚结束的香奈儿2019春夏高级定制发布会上,老佛爷带着工坊首席与工匠们在短短的准备周期里,又带来了怎样的系列呢?

本次香奈儿高定大秀将充满度假风情的地中海花园与泳池搬到了巴黎大皇宫,整个系列也颇有春夏花园的意境。

[image id='40666be2-fff4-425f-a21e-98950546f500' mediaId='0fd940dc-bef2-4b0c-a1cc-38a467a4dc2e' align='center' size='small' share='false' caption='' expand='' crop='original'][/image]

淡彩粉红、草原绿和天空蓝,结合优雅的黑、白、米与海军蓝和幻彩金银色,将浪漫轻盈的法式度假风情完美展现。

[image id='4722c271-2c52-4ee3-bf6f-47c57f86d8a5' mediaId='0bb5d5c4-3149-430a-87d3-14df06934af1' align='center' size='small' share='false' caption='' expand='' crop='original'][/image]

[image id='b45ace40-c694-464b-b90c-79ab71891c14' mediaId='8de2ee1f-6758-40c2-a84a-0af4f9fb527f' align='center' size='small' share='false' caption='' expand='' crop='original'][/image]

[image id='13b9dda8-d05d-4c51-acce-a946e21c88cd' mediaId='a5cce787-1a42-4e21-b10b-9cd10143549c' align='center' size='small' share='false' caption='' expand='' crop='original'][/image]

刺绣、手绘、蕾丝、羽毛、名贵树脂甚至陶瓷等形式与材质丰富了该系列的呈现方式,尽显工坊匠人的精巧技艺。

[image id='c495a255-cfbd-470d-b056-3f19a137e97b' mediaId='fdc3ba08-1016-430e-87d5-9a9835319ff0' align='center' size='small' share='false' caption='' expand='' crop='original'][/image]

[image id='d37b736a-a645-4095-b6b9-4343055b224e' mediaId='938d2ac7-42b6-44c2-aceb-4610d8587098' align='center' size='small' share='false' caption='' expand='' crop='original'][/image]

[image id='36cf8d0e-0c83-40a1-b5cd-80c61a4481e7' mediaId='8c329af7-ed05-4029-a7ab-ccc37d7e0c88' align='center' size='small' share='false' caption='' expand='' crop='original'][/image]

整体的纤长廓形与流畅线条充满图形艺术之美,贴合身体曲线,再加以折片、花冠等细节构造,打造出幻象效果和全新廓形。

[image id='8663e63c-aac1-42e9-9eb1-9ac14b960dcb' mediaId='7333de02-95a2-4ae4-bf4e-7f8ae5b95d78' align='center' size='small' share='false' caption='' expand='' crop='original'][/image]

[image id='2dea5958-2f4c-4dd9-b1a0-d51dd2121b7e' mediaId='501c4b95-442b-4054-b25b-ad3f7e36860c' align='center' size='small' share='false' caption='' expand='' crop='original'][/image]

连衣裙和套装非常精致考究,船型领露肩外套、中长款拉链裙等与面料完美地融于一体,进一步突显纯净的线条。

[image id='9835c72e-1f5d-4224-a59e-e5e8b053ed80' mediaId='21d8fbec-bfa8-4efe-865c-1f46505def15' align='center' size='small' share='false' caption='' expand='' crop='original'][/image]

[image id='033370d8-f0f7-4cd4-b6f4-df53edba3589' mediaId='bdfa9359-0e11-4fcc-9c4b-b4a017e40e73' align='center' size='small' share='false' caption='' expand='' crop='original'][/image]

这是本季中最为多元丰富的单品系列,Karl称其为“全新香奈儿”。翻襟无领、几何感不对称、双排扣、小裙摆叠加、编结滚边……再饰以羽毛、薄纱、皮革等,再现工坊的高超工艺。

[image id='bb9650ac-2440-4cd7-a8db-9e0758e66037' mediaId='1141cb8d-fe96-457f-bd90-adcfe4fa77b9' align='center' size='small' share='false' caption='' expand='' crop='original'][/image]

[image id='cf22f103-c0d9-4f57-894f-33173934ebbc' mediaId='1eaaacab-43d4-4fe7-9173-59c2329bac56' align='center' size='small' share='false' caption='' expand='' crop='original'][/image]

[image id='0ecfe026-3398-4c5c-b19a-15bae56512fc' mediaId='47b48341-73b3-4cca-aeb9-83e6575df3d5' align='center' size='small' share='false' caption='' expand='' crop='original'][/image]

[image id='2bdc27dc-ba92-453d-8999-3354fce494ed' mediaId='361af161-2290-469c-9d49-102f85d13b1e' align='center' size='small' share='false' caption='' expand='' crop='original'][/image]

闭幕款式以银片刺绣白色头纱搭配泳装、泳帽和编织中国绉绸礼袍,超模Vittoria Ceretti演绎颠覆常规的新娘造型,与以往的白色婚纱截然不同。

[image id='4697c70a-e5c2-4c41-bf38-14e9a8c3de2f' mediaId='1a373e64-6052-4568-91aa-a9455af3a75c' align='center' size='small' share='false' caption='' expand='' crop='original'][/image]

[image id='55d71cd4-1f9c-4242-968c-8fc777f9a1d6' mediaId='0b4ef15a-30f3-4366-a19d-3300bcc5ef58' align='center' size='small' share='false' caption='' expand='' crop='original'][/image]

而从细节来考察,裙装上的每一道横向暗褶均为手工制作,需耗费350小时。

[image id='d9229560-0975-418f-9698-260cc221fcb4' mediaId='3f9f21d3-3225-4358-9657-634e84db411c' align='center' size='small' share='false' caption='' expand='' crop='original'][/image]

[image id='cff6ff59-3638-4ff8-83ce-cf9111763800' mediaId='f3901a57-d86b-41d2-b404-c8538d981821' align='center' size='small' share='false' caption='' expand='' crop='original'][/image]

乌干纱连衣裙上的花卉刺绣采用羽毛制成,风琴褶由一针一线的收缝打造成形。

[image id='a483f802-d9a0-43e3-8007-cfd12c384909' mediaId='99080cf5-a798-4519-907f-4c8da04897c5' align='center' size='small' share='false' caption='' expand='' crop='original'][/image]

丝质轻软衬衫的菱形缩褶以手工缝制,运用650颗珠子将其固定成型。

[image id='54d4bd74-eec5-47a4-8a96-d21d032ec09b' mediaId='bd7de7e1-3221-474d-9312-ceedc16de1fa' align='center' size='small' share='false' caption='' expand='' crop='original'][/image]

[image id='af29bf1e-c39e-4940-8f7d-e7fa14d3ce97' mediaId='ab1696c5-b16d-472c-bef8-361166cf04ae' align='center' size='small' share='false' caption='' expand='' crop='original'][/image]

黑色螺旋式裁切皮革连衣裙以梯状蕾丝赋予精致轻盈感。

[image id='1246d144-2ff8-426a-8b68-96539d4cf246' mediaId='58fc0046-abce-4dd4-997b-0f5ed856c150' align='center' size='small' share='false' caption='' expand='' crop='original'][/image]

[image id='89045512-de37-4498-a9f7-5df94af3155b' mediaId='ca349ffc-bbb8-45ad-87f4-29ae269dad0e' align='center' size='small' share='false' caption='' expand='' crop='original'][/image]

白色套装饰以满幅亮片刺绣,尽显华丽。不知在这些精致细节的背后,是否又经历了老佛爷的“重重拷问”呢?

[image id='0056532d-7894-43b4-baa6-3fcf7a9fa5c7' mediaId='0fe72dfa-13aa-4b8c-bad8-75a52136ca3a' align='center' size='small' share='false' caption='' expand='' crop='original'][/image]

[image id='8c667254-8035-4b32-8673-20785752f0a9' mediaId='96cafccf-348e-4ba0-96c1-063c637a191c' align='center' size='small' share='false' caption='' expand='' crop='original'][/image]

这次并未在秀后与闭秀模特一同谢幕的老佛爷Karl,想必还是会为工匠们的技艺感到满意与欣慰。

[image id='62bedfcc-c961-4f40-9be8-4480b9fcf684' mediaId='57b15341-18e0-45ce-9851-64025986a84b' align='center' size='small' share='false' caption='' expand='' crop='original'][/image]

下一次,香奈儿又将把巴黎大皇宫布置成什么样呢?

This content is created and maintained by a third party, and imported onto this page to help users provide their email addresses. You may be able to find more information about this and similar content at piano.io
广告 - 内容未结束请往下滚动
更多 From 时装周