8ON8 2019秋冬系列‘SLEEPER’登陆上海时装周

8ON8 由设计师 LI GONG 2017年创立于伦敦,所传达的是设计师关于复古未来主义美学的诠释:立足于当下,畅想复古未来主义的架空世界,是 LI GONG 一直以来所坚持的独特语境。 本季,他聚焦于七十年代人们对未来主义世界的极致想象,通过现代的手法刻画出一个充满诙谐幽默,也发人深思的新系列。

本季灵感来自伍迪·艾伦(Woody Allen)执导的1973年科幻喜剧电影《傻瓜大闹科学城》(Sleeper)。这部拍摄于七十年代的科幻电影,描绘的是伍迪·艾伦对两百年后人类社会的疯狂想象:包裹于先进科技下的人类文明毁于机械,而人类却乐此不疲——是导演对彼时社会的强烈讽刺。这种来自伍迪独有的诙谐手法所呈现的荒诞未来主义,引发了 LI GONG 对本季的思考:他从这部七十年代的科幻电影出发,将影片中所呈现的复古未来主义与标志性设计结合,进一步主张并深化 8ON8 所传递的沉淀式青年文化。

Suit, Fashion, Formal wear, Clothing, Fashion model, Tuxedo, Human, White-collar worker, Outerwear, Fashion show,

Fashion model, Fashion, Clothing, Fashion show, Snapshot, Fur, Fashion design, Human, Model, Haute couture,

Clothing, Fashion, Fashion model, Beige, Fashion show, Fashion design, Human, Overcoat, Coat, Hat,

Clothing, Fashion, Trench coat, Outerwear, Coat, Workwear, Human, Fashion design, Overcoat, Street fashion,

Clothing, Fashion, Coat, Overcoat, Yellow, Outerwear, Fashion model, Trench coat, Human, Fashion design,

Fashion model, Clothing, Fashion, Overcoat, Coat, Fashion show, Outerwear, Yellow, Trench coat, Fashion design,

White, Clothing, Fashion, Suit, Formal wear, Hat, Fashion model, Fashion design, Human, Headgear,

为了表现对七十年代未来主义面貌的独特印象,LI GONG 援引了电影中关于未来城市中人类职业的刻画,如超市售货员,警察,工人,普通居民等日常角色,片中他们的形象被颠覆,拥有了独树一帜的身份标签。

Clothing, Fashion, Blue, Outerwear, Electric blue, Workwear, Headgear, Photography, Fashion design, Coat,

Fashion, Blue, Clothing, Fashion model, Denim, Runway, Electric blue, Fashion show, Cobalt blue, Fashion design,

Fashion, Electric blue, Human, Fashion model, Runway, Model, Fashion show, Photography, Fashion design, Formal wear,

Fashion, Fashion show, Runway, Fashion model, Fashion design, Suit, Human, Formal wear, Headgear, Model,

White, Clothing, Fashion, Outerwear, Hoodie, Jeans, Human, Cool, Photography, Street fashion,

Fashion, Fashion model, Clothing, Fashion show, Suit, Fashion design, Formal wear, Runway, Model, Outerwear,

Fashion, Human, Hat, Runway, Headgear, Fashion show, Photography, Fedora, Street fashion, Electric blue,

以此为灵感,LI GONG 在延续了结合功能性高端面料与传统工艺的设计手法,通过标签式的剪裁和配色,将它们转化为立足于当下的现代性表述,同时融入七十年代的 Hippies 的原始力量和 Camping 户外元素,打造富有复古未来主义感的整体氛围:

Fashion, Clothing, Fashion show, Runway, Suit, Formal wear, Fashion model, Human, Outerwear, Event,

Fashion, Clothing, Tartan, Pattern, Design, Fashion design, Textile, Outerwear, Plaid, Coat,

Fashion, Clothing, Fashion model, Runway, Fashion show, Human, Model, Fashion design, Headgear, Neck,

Fashion, Runway, Clothing, Fashion show, Orange, Fashion model, Outerwear, Fashion design, Model, Suit,

Fashion, Fashion model, Clothing, Fashion show, Runway, Haute couture, Fashion design, Human, Formal wear, Event,

Fashion, Clothing, Suit, Fashion show, Runway, Outerwear, Human, Action figure, Fashion design, Formal wear,

Fashion, Clothing, Fashion model, Runway, Suit, Fashion show, Formal wear, Model, Fashion design, Outerwear,

极具代表性的箱型西装,延续了品牌标签式的 Boxy Tailoring,LI GONG 利用大褶皱细节和金属环扣的细节设计,以此增强廓形的层次与未来感,进而突显 8ON8 Tailoring Piece的辨识度,这也是本季贯穿始终的点睛之笔。

Green, Fashion, Clothing, Street fashion, Outerwear, Runway, Human, Fashion show, Coat, Fashion design,

Green, Fashion, Human, Hat, Headgear, Outerwear, Fashion design, Fedora, Photography, Street fashion,

Green, Fashion, Outerwear, Personal protective equipment, Action figure, Suit, Hazmat suit,

Fashion, Clothing, Pink, Fashion show, Hat, Fashion design, Runway, Model, Headgear, Fashion model,

White, Fashion, Human, Suit, Fashion design, Headgear, Fashion model, Neck, Model, Formal wear,

Fashion, Outerwear, Suit, Personal protective equipment, Helmet, Jacket, Fashion design, Action figure, Formal wear, Trousers,

Red, Fashion, Action figure, Outerwear, Suit, Toy, Jacket, Fictional character,

独特的火山领羽绒短背心,领型源自五十年代女性高定 Archive Piece——这同样是 LI GONG 最擅长的糅合 Archive 与现代时装的手法,他将户外元素与羽绒服的蓬松质感相结合,为经典的廓形添加了运动感和诙谐感,也呈现出介于复古与未来主义的现代主义。

Fashion, Runway, Fashion show, Fashion model, Fashion design, Human, Street fashion, Outerwear, Model, Headgear,

Fashion, Purple, Street fashion, Human, Fashion design, Design, Textile, Hat, Headgear, Outerwear,

Fashion, Runway, Human, Fashion show, Outerwear, Suit, Fashion design, Action figure, Formal wear, Fedora,

Suit, Fashion, Fashion model, Clothing, Formal wear, Runway, Fashion show, Tuxedo, Model, Fashion design,

Fashion, Clothing, Runway, Fashion show, Fashion model, Fashion design, Dress shirt, Human, Formal wear, Model,

Fashion, Runway, Fashion model, Fashion show, Human, Outerwear, Fashion design, Model, Photography, Fedora,

Fashion model, White, Fashion, Clothing, Fashion show, Jeans, Denim, Runway, Fashion design, Street fashion,

Fashion, Suit, Fashion model, Clothing, Runway, Fashion show, Formal wear, Human, Model, Tuxedo,

Fashion, Fashion model, Clothing, Runway, Fashion show, Human, Model, Fashion design, Haute couture, Outerwear,

值得一提的是,本季的秀场设计灵感源自电影中超生培育农场的情景,巨大无比的家禽和水果蔬菜陈列于秀场中,呈现出一种特有的荒诞和诙谐,“电影中‘I beat a man insensible with a strawberry’的这句台词给了我很深刻的印象,也在一定程度上决定了整场秀的氛围。我希望尽可能地还原电影中呈现的未来主义城市印象。” LI GONG 透露道。

Fashion, Design, Fashion show, Runway, Event, Fashion design, Photography, Brand, World, Haute couture,

Fashion, Event, Crowd, Fashion design, Performance,

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