Burberry的新时代到来!这一季全都想买!

2018年的时尚圈大事记——Christopher Bailey在执掌Burberry 17年后离任,前Givenchy创意总监Riccardo Tisci接棒掌舵成为Burberry首席创意官。

北京时间今晨零点半,新任设计总监Riccardo Tisci的Burberry首款系列于伦敦时装周发布,这个意大利男人用他的处女秀致敬伦敦的怪诞个性与英伦传统风格。

Fashion model, Fashion show, Fashion, Runway, Clothing, Haute couture, Waist, Public event, Event, Fashion design,

Fashion model, Fashion show, Fashion, Runway, Clothing, Fashion design, Shoulder, Public event, Haute couture, Event,

Fashion model, Fashion, Fashion show, Runway, Clothing, Haute couture, Event, Public event, Dress, Fashion design,

2019春夏男女装系列名为Kingdom,于伦敦西南部的Vauxhall全新秀址发布。本季系列致敬的英国时装的核心——对多样化创意的包容、朋克与反叛的风格传统、正式与干练的英伦精髓。紧紧抓住了英国文化呈现出的新时代样貌,也为Burberry这个英格兰老牌时装屋重新定义了视觉化语言。

Fashion model, Fashion, Fashion show, Runway, White, Clothing, Haute couture, Fashion design, Public event, Shoulder,

Fashion model, Fashion, Clothing, Suit, Runway, Fashion show, Haute couture, Formal wear, Pantsuit, Outerwear,

就在这个月初,Riccardo宣布Burberry也加入“弃用皮草的大营”,于此同时也将停止对于未售出囤货的销毁,环保理念从首个系列开始贯彻。

Fashion model, Fashion show, Fashion, Runway, Clothing, Public event, Fashion design, Event, Leg, Haute couture,

西装与格纹、腰带与整齐的排扣、军装上的金穗与飘逸的丝巾、驼色扎别丁风衣与V领针织开衫,一方面Riccardo对Burberry的品牌DNA进行解码;朋克风的铆钉夹克、英伦艺术绘画图案、少女系波点欧根纱、宫廷式荷叶边褶皱,另一方面Riccardo又融入了他对英伦形象的新式描绘。而两者结合又是这样顺其自然,他仿佛将我们几乎所能想到的所有英伦元素融会贯通,Riccardo对伦敦的体会不亚于土生土长的英国人。

Fashion model, Fashion, Fashion show, Runway, Clothing, Haute couture, Waist, Neck, Shoulder, Fashion design,

Fashion model, Fashion, Fashion show, Runway, Clothing, Haute couture, Fashion design, Event, Public event, Outerwear,

Fashion model, Fashion, Fashion show, Runway, Clothing, Haute couture, Fashion design, Public event, Event, Shoulder,

Fashion model, Fashion, Fashion show, Runway, Clothing, Haute couture, Fashion design, Design, Pattern, Event,

Fashion, Fashion model, Runway, Fashion show, Clothing, Street fashion, Public event, Fashion design, Event, Outerwear,

Fashion show, Fashion, Fashion model, Runway, Clothing, Red, Pink, Haute couture, Public event, Waist,

Fashion show, Fashion, Runway, Fashion model, Clothing, Haute couture, Trousers, Fashion design, Event, Street fashion,

Fashion model, Fashion, Fashion show, Clothing, Runway, Eyewear, Fur clothing, Fur, Haute couture, Outerwear,

Fashion, Clothing, Fashion model, Fashion show, Runway, Overcoat, Street fashion, Coat, Outerwear, Fashion design,

Fashion model, Fashion, Fashion show, Runway, Shoulder, Clothing, Dress, Haute couture, Event, Joint,

Fashion, Fashion model, Clothing, Fashion show, Runway, Pattern, Street fashion, Design, Human, Footwear,

Fashion model, Fashion show, Fashion, Runway, Clothing, Shoulder, Waist, Haute couture, Event, Neck,

17岁来到伦敦,这个意大利男人开始了他的设计生涯。随后在2005年被Givenchy选中,成为其女装艺术总监。可以说,伦敦是他的出发地。“当我开始设计我的第一个Burberry系列时,我思考了很多关于旅程的事。从我20年前在这里的毕业设计秀到如今回归此地,我的这个旅程走了有多远。我思考了在我多年的设计灵感中,伦敦给了多少启迪——是伦敦这个城市让我梦想成为一名时装设计师。”

Social group, People, Fashion, Eyewear, Team, Event, Fashion design, Footwear, Photography, Photo shoot,

Burberry设计师Riccardo Tisci谢幕

细节中藏着大彩蛋!

新式玛丽珍鞋、人字少年鞋等极具传统风格的鞋履与时装共同营造英伦氛围;带有新式LOGO图案的手袋估计会是爆款,TB的锁扣设计也无疑会成为全新的Iconic设计,最让我们惊喜的是——眼熟的小鹿斑比也跟着他的创造者Riccardo来到了Burberry!

Product, Pink, Plaid, Fashion, Design, Beige, Pattern, Material property, Fashion accessory, Font,

Suit, Forehead, Formal wear, Tuxedo, Chin, Facial hair, White-collar worker, Photography, Moustache, Beard,

Riccardo Tisci

Riccardo Ticsi是谁?

Riccardo Tisci曾在Givenchy效力12年之久,期间设计出了无数爆款单品,你看到后一定会一眼认出:这是Givenchy!

比如小鹿斑比

这样经典的动画形象穿上身,活泼可爱,正经又不正经,往往可以给给时髦精们高冷的造型增添很多的趣味性。

T-shirt, Black, White, Clothing, Sleeve, Top, Brand, Picture frame,

几乎有一整年,小鹿斑比在日常街头,在活动现场,甚至在红毯上,曝光率简直高到不能再高。

还有最经典的“恶狗头”图案。早期有罗威纳犬,后期有杜宾犬跟进,本来只是为了弥补Riccardo Tisci自己小时候想养一只罗威纳犬的愿望而做出的设计,却一下子在挑剔的时尚圈红的很彻底!

Rottweiler, Canidae, Dog, Working dog, Dog breed, T-shirt, Font, Album cover, Photography, Carnivore,

不论男生女生,“恶狗衫”上身气场全开,满满当当地带着"Bad Girl&Bad Boy"潇洒不羁的时髦态度!

如今这台“爆款制造机”加入了Burberry!

而而每个品牌换新设计师,都要进行一波“改革”,改下LOGO出点新的标识Pattern是常有的事。Riccardo Tisci于今年3月加入Burberry后,也采取了多项“整改”举措——

首先是Monogram徽标和品牌LOGO的更换——

与英国艺术总监兼平面设计师Peter Saville合作,设计并发布全新Burberry专属Monogram,包含Burberry品牌创始人Thomas Burberry首字母缩写”T”和”B”。

Orange, Font, Text, Pattern, Line, Design, Textile, Pattern, Graphics,

与此同时,品牌LOGO也变得更简洁大气——

“Peter Saville是这个年代最伟大的设计天才之一,我很开心与他合作,一起重塑Burberry的logo与视觉形象。” ——Riccardo Tisci

随后,Burberry在世界各大时髦都市进行了洗脑式布置,很快让这个新LOGO和Monogram深入人心。

Motor vehicle, Vehicle, Car, Transport, Mode of transport, City car, Subcompact car, Asphalt, Hatchback,

纽约日落海滩的遮阳伞/伦敦街头专车

这只名叫Thomas Burberry Bear的大熊,也到访了世界各地,安静地卖萌

纽约亚斯特坊广场/上海新天地太平湖/伦敦Marble Arch

当然,还有席卷各大城市旗舰店的超大面积外墙布置

Metropolitan area, Building, City, Skyscraper, Urban area, Metropolis, Tower block, Landmark, Tower, Condominium,

上海环球港与首尔旗舰店

香港旗舰店与米兰旗舰店

而在2019春夏秀前,Riccardo就率先出了些单品让人解馋——

为Beyoncé在其On the Run II全球巡回演唱会量身定制的复古格纹造型是Riccardo在Burberry上任后第一件公开的设计作品。

Performance, Clothing, Music artist, Thigh, Singer, Fashion, Fashion model, Album cover, Performing arts, Stage,

品牌还发布了B Classic系列,包含Riccardo从Burberry 2019早春系列挑选并策划的16个造型。该系列礼赞Burberry经典款单品,包括Heritage 系列经典风衣、轻便大衣、哈灵顿夹克、苏格兰短裙及斗篷。该系列由Burberry设计团队设计,于2018年11月在门店发售。

Clothing, Trench coat, Coat, Street fashion, Outerwear, Fashion, Overcoat, Photography, Beige, Sleeve,

Vivienne Westwood独树一帜的英伦美学也对Riccardo影响颇大。加入Burberry后,Riccardo就与西太后推出了合作系列,所得收入将用于支持非营利组织Cool Earth。

就在前几天,Riccardo通过本人Instagram惊喜超前发布了首款2019春夏单品。

T-shirt, Clothing, Black, Product, Sleeve, Cool, Font, Brand, Neck, Top,

Riccardo本人也身着这件黑色“Thomas Burberry” 专属标识T恤,发布在个人Instagram上。

包括该单品在内的新品在秀前(9月13日)已限时发售24小时!反正关系好的明星都已经把令人羡慕的上身照Po出来了>_<

Hair, Face, Head, Hairstyle, Cool, Skin, Nose, T-shirt, Lip, Headgear,

与Riccardo在Givenchy时期就结缘颇深的春春 & Burberry品牌好友周冬雨

时髦上天的先锋Icon Rihanna & My Burberry香水系列代言人Lily James

痴迷伦敦传统文化,又深谙朋克精神;是爆款制造机,又对饥饿营销游刃有余。Riccardo Tisci已经为Burberry成功翻开了一页全新的篇章。赞美的话不多说,你就告诉我:会买吗?

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