Alexander McQueen发布2019年秋冬系列女装时装秀

这次我回到了位于北英格兰的故土。这里到处都是纺织磨坊和乡村风光。我带领我的团队来到这些纺织磨坊,来到我的童年记忆地图。在这趟旅程中,我们看到了很多由人工和机器所编织的布匹,它们也成为了这个系列的灵感内核。 ——Sarah Burton 创意总监

造型01、02、04

精巧剪裁的西装饰有率性挺括的肩线、全廓形腰部曲线以及优美的不对称褶裥。通身以烟灰色和炭黑色精纺法兰绒呈现,并配以英伦特色镶边。这些造型全部在磨坊小镇上被制作成型。这些磨坊小镇也是英国纺织行业中的核心。精纺羊毛细纱双面缩绒所编织而成的法兰绒面料有着复古的美感,而当地温和的水质则打造了服饰独特的手感。纱线的纺织由手工和机器完成,泾渭分明,最终形成了奢华而正统的时装。

Fashion, Runway, Fashion model, Clothing, Fashion show, Suit, Footwear, Outerwear, Human, Public event,

Runway, Fashion, Fashion model, Fashion show, Suit, Clothing, Formal wear, Outerwear, Public event, Event,

造型03

长袖谷波法针织裙,以原木天丝面料制成,配以撞色饰边。衣袖和边缘处饰以不规则的浮线装饰,灵感源于在北方之旅中所见的复杂而美丽的织布机。

Fashion show, Fashion model, Runway, Fashion, Clothing, Shoulder, Public event, Neck, Fashion design, Human,

造型05

衬衫裙,以不同色度的白色系棉质府绸为面料,饰以开衩和褶边。这唤起人们对于Whit Walks上妇女参政论者们的以及,仿佛是女性穿着她们最好的周日服装自信地向前迈进。这条裙子的灵感源自维多利亚时代的男士衬衫,装饰有拼接的胸甲。其所用的府绸面料来自于一个位于Pennines山脚的历史悠久的磨坊。这种面料诞生于1790,当时正值工业革命的中期。

Fashion, Fashion model, Runway, Fashion show, Clothing, Haute couture, Fashion design, Outerwear, Shoulder, Event,

造型06

双排扣羊绒军装大衣,由手工编织出象牙白、烟灰、海军蓝至黑色的过渡以及起绒效果。这个纵向的渐变图案是受到一条毛毯面料的启发。面料呈现完全对称,并饰以解构的方切饰边。

Fashion, Fashion model, Fashion show, Runway, Clothing, Haute couture, Public event, Fashion design, Outerwear, Human,

造型07

柔软的抛光丝绸公爵缎面裙上印有抽象的花瓣和花苞图案,以黑色,白色以及象牙色呈现出来。长度拖地的裙身,褶边,以及紧身的胸衣让人回想起勃朗特的小说中披荆斩棘的女英雄形象。

造型08

精致剪裁的西装大衣,通身黑色双面毛毡面料,饰以被解构并拼接的红色面料,并延伸至褶裥。

Fashion model, Fashion show, Runway, Fashion, Clothing, Coat, Outerwear, Overcoat, Footwear, Fashion design,

造型09、11

解构褶边印花连衣裙的灵感来自花卉摄影和后朋克风格海报。双面公爵缎面裙上的玫瑰印花和色彩饱和度较高的紫红色,粉红色,亮红色线条相互交织。

Fashion show, Fashion model, Runway, Fashion, Clothing, Fashion design, Dress, Public event, Footwear, Model,

Fashion model, Fashion show, Fashion, Runway, Clothing, Fashion design, Dress, Haute couture, Event, Public event,

造型10

精致剪裁西装,通身亮红色羊毛真丝面料,饰以黑色精纺法兰绒裙摆。搭配以饰有红色边缘的黑色军装剪裁长裤。

Runway, Fashion, Fashion model, Fashion show, Clothing, Suit, Formal wear, Pantsuit, Public event, Event,

造型12

抛光黑色面料的经典风衣,饰有夺目威尔士亲王格纹图案,以黑色、白色、亮红色呈现。

Runway, Fashion, Fashion show, Fashion model, Clothing, Fashion design, Leather, Haute couture, Outerwear, Event,

造型13

黑色束腰连衣裙采用深镂空褶皱裙身设计,饰有拼接激光雕花图案。

Fashion model, Fashion, Runway, Fashion show, Clothing, Dress, Haute couture, Public event, Fashion design, Event,

造型14

这件以男装作为灵感来源的全油画印花大衣被重新制作,饰以解构主义黑色及白色威尔士亲王条纹图案。拉绒羊绒与立体玫瑰荷叶边刺绣形成视觉冲击。刺绣的灵感来源于在工厂车间地板上所发现的包边余料。

Fashion model, Fashion, Fashion show, Runway, Clothing, Fashion design, Public event, Event, Human, Haute couture,

造型15

连衣裙采用维多利亚时代裙撑工艺,饰有玫瑰衣袖和心形领口,并拼接风琴褶边。如画般的蓝色玫瑰印花被打乱后在双面公爵缎面裙上重新排列。

Fashion model, Fashion, Fashion show, Runway, Clothing, Fashion design, Cobalt blue, Haute couture, Dress, Shoulder,

造型16

错视风格西装,配有率性肩线,并饰以腰部开衩,凸显臀部曲线。通身以犬牙纹和威尔士亲王格纹面料,打造独特的错视效果。

Fashion model, Runway, Fashion, Fashion show, Clothing, Fashion design, Suit, Public event, Outerwear, Event,

造型17、19

高领荷叶边针织连衣裙,配有衩口和银色金属纽扣,充满着北方的味道和诗人的忧郁,让人联想到Rose Queen选美大赛中的连衣裙。通过运用独特的嵌花技术,将薄丝绸插入每一处的缝边,保证了裙子的轻盈和流动性。

Fashion model, Fashion show, Fashion, Runway, Cobalt blue, Clothing, Shoulder, Blue, Dress, Electric blue,

Fashion model, Fashion, Fashion show, Runway, Clothing, Haute couture, Dress, Fashion design, Public event, Event,

造型18

解构全印花夹克配有率性的肩部剪裁,搭配直筒剪裁裤装。灵感源于Huddersfield 羊毛厂中的纺织档案库中关于男装西装面料的样本书。海军蓝色细条纹上涂抹以柔和粉灰色,产生视觉对比。同时,本造型也取材于英格兰北方磨坊上写实主义的黑白摄影作品。

Fashion, Fashion model, Runway, Fashion show, Clothing, Suit, Formal wear, Footwear, Public event, Event,

造型20、22

精致剪裁的深蓝色和亮红色双排扣经典外套配有率性肩部设计。风琴褶边加强了腰部轮廓。

Fashion model, Runway, Fashion, Fashion show, Clothing, Leather, Fashion design, Footwear, Haute couture, Public event,

Fashion show, Runway, Fashion model, Fashion, Clothing, Public event, Outerwear, Haute couture, Coat, Leather,

造型21

亮红色束腰铅笔裙,配以心形领口,正面饰以皮革玫瑰,打造不对称的立体视觉。灵感来源于兰卡斯特家族的红玫瑰徽章。

Fashion model, Fashion show, Runway, Fashion, Clothing, Shoulder, Red, Fashion design, Dress, Footwear,

造型23

白色牛仔连衣裙,饰以明线胸衣线条、心形领口、做旧解构主义玫瑰花领饰以及不对称下摆。玫瑰的灵感源于约克的白玫瑰。

Fashion model, Fashion show, Runway, Fashion, Clothing, White, Dress, Shoulder, Fashion design, Haute couture,

造型24

错视风格风衣外套搭配镂空机车夹克,采用亚光面料、亮片铆钉以及白色涂层。

Fashion model, Runway, Fashion show, Fashion, Clothing, Outerwear, Fashion design, Public event, Leather, Human,

造型25

黑色皮革机车夹克采用亚光面料,饰以亮片铆钉、涂层翻领和缝线插片。搭配不对称解构针织半身裙采用丝绸和马海毛面料,饰以精美丝绸罗纹荷叶边。荷叶边在马海毛中呈献做旧效果。这个技巧的灵感源于纺织磨坊中起绒技术。

Fashion model, Fashion, Fashion show, Runway, Clothing, Haute couture, Public event, Fashion design, Event, Outerwear,

造型26

图形连衣裙灵感来源于机械和金属制品,饰以针织带和蕾丝绣花。裙子由机器从臀部往下打褶,并配有渐变银色金属裁缝搭扣。

Fashion, Fashion model, Fashion show, Runway, Clothing, Haute couture, Public event, Human, Design, Event,

造型27

羊毛真丝西装采用朋克风格多拉链的细节设计,搭配不对称解构针织半身裙,采用丝绸和马海毛面料,饰以精美丝绸罗纹荷叶边。荷叶边在马海毛中达到做旧效果。

Fashion, Fashion model, Fashion show, Runway, Clothing, Haute couture, Event, Public event, Fashion design, Outerwear,

造型28

黑色薄纱刺绣连衣裙,饰以层叠真丝公爵缎面圆形阳光褶皱。黑玉及簇绒刺绣参考了英格兰北方的鸟类 - 猫头鹰是利兹的象征, 海鸥是布莱克浦的象征,以及鸬鹚是利物浦的象征 - 玫瑰和工蜂。

Fashion model, Fashion show, Fashion, Runway, Clothing, Dress, Haute couture, Shoulder, Fashion design, Event,

造型29

黑色羊毛真丝解构刺绣燕尾服夹克,配有钩眼系带细节,饰以褶皱丝绸公爵缎面。褶边饰有手绘猫头鹰、海鸥、鸬鹚、玫瑰和工蜂的蕾丝花边刺绣。通过切割,拼接展示出朋克风格的优雅美学。

Fashion model, Fashion, Runway, Fashion show, Clothing, Suit, Haute couture, Formal wear, Fashion design, Outerwear,

造型30

胸衣连衣裙饰有不对称层叠褶皱黑色真丝公爵缎面荷叶边,并饰有手绘猫头鹰、海鸥、鸬鹚、玫瑰和工蜂的红黑双色刺绣。

Fashion, Fashion model, Fashion show, Runway, Clothing, Fashion design, Haute couture, Event, Textile, Design,

造型31

错视风格黑色羊毛真丝燕尾服,采用收腰设计。灵感来自Pearly Queen夹克、朋克徽章和别针。由银色珠子、水晶和线组成的刺绣灵感源于拾得物——机械螺钉,螺母和螺栓。

Runway, Fashion model, Fashion, Clothing, Fashion show, Suit, Formal wear, Pantsuit, Outerwear, Blazer,

造型32

透明黑色刺绣薄纱上衣,饰以玻璃石、刻面珠和小银链,灵感源于机械风格和拾得的宝藏。

Fashion model, Fashion, Runway, Fashion show, Clothing, Haute couture, Dress, Fashion design, Event, Public event,

造型33

薄纱上衣,搭配黑色羊毛真丝燕尾服下装,饰有玻璃石、金属线、珠子和金银丝刺绣等细节。灵感来源于在英格兰北方舞厅发现的复古水晶吊灯。

Fashion model, Fashion show, Fashion, Runway, Clothing, Dress, Fashion design, Haute couture, Event, Public event,

造型34

黑色薄纱上衣,饰以银色棕线刺绣,灵感来自织布机的棕线。在服装运动的时候,激光切割的金属棕线亮片重现车间的声音。玻璃石、金属亮片、刻面珠放置成机械的图案营造一种工业感。

Fashion, Fashion model, Fashion show, Runway, Clothing, Haute couture, Fashion design, Shoulder, Outerwear, Human,

造型35

宝蓝色羊毛真丝无袖剪裁夹克,饰以优美双层缎面侧摆,搭配修长的裤子,刚柔并济。

Fashion model, Fashion, Runway, Fashion show, Clothing, Cobalt blue, Electric blue, Haute couture, Blue, Formal wear,

造型36

镶片紧身连衣裙,饰以宝蓝色真丝玫瑰提花,优美双侧缎面裙摆,蕾丝和花卉,搭配修长裤子。

Fashion show, Fashion model, Fashion, Runway, Clothing, Cobalt blue, Dress, Fashion design, Haute couture, Electric blue,

造型37

玫瑰夸张的立体感和黑色塔夫绸的精致褶边相结合,打造连衣裙蓬松的比例和起伏,让人联想到盛开的鲜花。

Fashion model, Fashion, Runway, Fashion show, Clothing, Fashion design, Outerwear, Haute couture, Dress, Event,

造型38

燕尾服夹克,通身黑色羊毛真丝面料,饰有玫瑰色丝绸公爵缎面垂褶袖以饱和的紫红色粉红色呈现,搭配细长羊毛丝绸燕尾服长裤。

Fashion, Fashion model, Runway, Suit, Clothing, Fashion show, Formal wear, Pantsuit, Haute couture, Event,

造型39

真丝塔夫绸连衣裙以饱和紫红色粉红色呈现,让人联想盛开的玫瑰。精致合身的裙撑,搭配多瓣裙摆。

Fashion model, Fashion, Fashion show, Runway, Clothing, Pink, Fashion design, Haute couture, Outerwear, Event,

造型40

精致剪裁的黑色羊毛真丝燕尾服夹克,配以斜裁剪裁的肩部设计,臀部饰以真丝塔夫绸玫瑰,裙摆及地。搭配修长黑色羊毛真丝长裤。

Fashion, Fashion model, Runway, Fashion show, Clothing, Suit, Formal wear, Haute couture, Event, Public event,

造型41

真丝塔夫绸连衣裙,以饱和的红色呈现,让人想起盛开的玫瑰。精致合身的裙撑,搭配多瓣裙摆。灵感来源于兰卡斯特家族的红玫瑰徽章。

Fashion, Red, Runway, Outerwear, Haute couture, Fashion design, Fashion show, Event, Performance art, Costume,

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