Alexander McQueen 2020秋冬系列——与古典对话

北方的风景。被风吹过的土地寸草不生:燧石,岩石,粗糙的土地和蓟。新艺术主义、艺术和工匠精神:现代主义的含蓄优雅。亨利·摩尔的自然抽象画。Alexander McQueen男装和女装系列之间的对话仍在继续:传统剪裁、制服、混搭拼接和捶打工艺。

Red, Performance, Photography, Flesh, Barechested, Performance art, Heat,
ALEXANDER MCQUEEN

系列

双排扣大衣和西装的设计灵感来自矿物、岩石和石头,由燧石灰和黑色多纳戈斜纹软呢制成,以利落的发散廓形精准剪裁。

Clothing, Suit, Street fashion, Standing, Fashion, Formal wear, Outerwear, Blazer, Neck, Shoe,
ALEXANDER MCQUEEN

灰色鲨鱼皮马海毛和黑色羊毛的外套和夹克被拼接切割,呼应了军事制服的线条。经典军大衣的镶板被裁剪成标志性西装和驼色大衣。外套和夹克使用黑色的羊毛和驼色的布料拼接并打上补丁。Alexander McQueen的工坊中诞生了一株手绘黑色水墨蓟,用金银线在象牙色羊毛外套和棉质府绸衬衫上刺绣。

Suit, Clothing, Formal wear, Blazer, Standing, Tuxedo, Street fashion, Outerwear, Fashion, Pantsuit,
ALEXANDER MCQUEEN

其中一件外套是用矿物黄色绒面革粘合的。一件皮衣由威廉·克拉克(William Clark)用特制的木梁敲打四个多小时制成,他是爱尔兰最后一位使用这种有百年历史的技术的匠人。这件作品参考了Alexander McQueen 2020年春夏女装系列中拥有同样来源的爱尔兰捶打亚麻布造型。

Clothing, Coat, Overcoat, Trench coat, Standing, Street fashion, Fashion, Outerwear, Beige, Formal wear,
ALEXANDER MCQUEEN

超大的针织羊毛和马海毛具有抽象的标记、雕塑感骷髅图案,和夺目菱形旗图案。

Black-and-white, Standing, Fashion, Tree, Outerwear, Photography, Monochrome photography, Monochrome, Street fashion, Photo shoot,
ALEXANDER MCQUEEN

艺术家气质的石灰和白色连体衣上印有超大的手绘骷髅,并绣有金银线。皮革机车夹克和裤子有对比感绗缝镶板。

White, Standing, Barechested, Wall, Black-and-white, Fashion, Human, Muscle, Art, Cool,
ALEXANDER MCQUEEN

利落的标志性西装以双层公爵夫人缎面及深浅不一的深橙色和玛瑙红色呈现,搭配皮革军装风格饰带。

Clothing, Suit, Fashion, Street fashion, Formal wear, Outerwear, Photography, Fashion model, Fashion design, Trousers,
ALEXANDER MCQUEEN

羊毛丝质西装和外套上印着亨利·摩尔(Henry Moore)的艺术作品——来自1928年的《Three-Quarter Figure》,经亨利·摩尔基金会(Henry Moore Foundation)授权复制。晚礼服裤装搭配错视风格的双层燕尾服夹克。饰以金银线刺绣黑色新艺术风格喷黑艺术设计蓟图案的熔化金属矿石铸造的马甲搭配穿黑色公爵夫人缎面裤装。

拼接夹克和外套都是用象牙色和黑色的真丝羊毛面料以及银色和金色的金属波纹线面料裁剪而成。西装晚礼服和大衣闪烁着抽象的印记、熔化的金属矿石图案和新艺术风格金银线刺绣图案。

Photograph, Clothing, Standing, Uniform, Formal wear, Black-and-white, Suit, Fashion, Coat, Overcoat,
ALEXANDER MCQUEEN

面料

多纳戈斜纹软呢、鲨鱼皮马海毛、羊毛哔叽、拜拉西亚羊毛,棉质帆布,棉质华达呢,羊毛华达呢,山羊皮,皮革,骆驼毛,马海毛,公爵夫人缎料,羊毛真丝,毛丝提花,金属缎背波纹绸。

Red, Suit, Clothing, Orange, Street fashion, Standing, Formal wear, Fashion, Outerwear, Tuxedo,
ALEXANDER MCQUEEN

色彩

矿物黄、玛瑙红、深橘色、金色、银色、驼色、石灰、木炭灰、象牙白、黑色。

Clothing, Yellow, Jeans, Street fashion, Jacket, Fashion, Outerwear, Denim, Standing, Workwear,
ALEXANDER MCQUEEN

鞋履

黑色及酒红色金属鞋头Tread靴子。

Standing, Fashion, Uniform, Outerwear, Formal wear, Art,
ALEXANDER MCQUEEN

珠宝配饰

金属石英石形状的徽章由矿物铸造,悬挂在链条上;每一个都是独一无二的。双层戒指上镶有金属宝石。耳环——从自然形状的条状耳环到多环的耳挂——代表着埋藏在地下的宝藏。手工切割的矿物晶体像吊坠一样,被镶嵌在戒指里或悬挂在耳挂上。

Photograph, Black, Black-and-white, Monochrome photography, Beauty, Standing, Branch, Tree, Photography, Fashion,
ALEXANDER MCQUEEN
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