路易威登巴黎大秀,请来了横跨500年的时装ICON

试想,几个世纪以来的时髦ICON们齐聚一堂,身着各个年代不同的代表性服装一起比美,是怎样盛大华丽而不可思议的景象?Louis Vuitton这次告诉你答案。

史上所有的时尚风潮汇聚,会是怎样的景象?巴黎时装周最后一日,Louis Vuitton 2020秋冬系列大秀如约压轴登场。这次大秀的关键词是“时代错位(Anachronism)”,从秀前的预告我们便能看出端倪:古典油画纷纷跃然画外手持LV包袋,看来这即将是一场古典和现代的激烈碰撞!
走入卢浮宫秀场,第一时间看到的回型T台仿佛没什么特别,可当音乐响起,聚光灯打向一侧看台,200个身着华服的人物造型映入眼帘,令编辑忍不住wow了出来!这200个人物造型,均由曾为《发条橙》、《巴里·林登》和《闪灵》等电影设计服装的戏服设计师 Milena Canonero打造,造型年代从15世纪横跨至20世纪50年代。200位演员风格不同,神态各异,每个都栩栩如生塑造着不同的故事,将各个时代的时尚风潮真正齐聚一堂,令人惊叹。

People, Social group, Crowd, Choir, Performance, Stage, Event, Musical ensemble, Musical theatre, Orchestra,
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秀场音乐也十分点题,这首乐曲名为《Three Hundred and Twenty(320)》,也就是指巴洛克时期所影响的各个音乐流派之间横跨的320年。在时代的碰撞之音下,模特从画中人中大步走来,大秀开始!

Fashion, Runway, Performance, Event, Fashion design, Fashion show, Night, Street fashion, Stage, Tourism,
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正如女装创意总监Nicolas Ghesquière所说,本系列关乎“打破整体造型”。“碰撞“这个主题清晰地贯穿全场,以混搭的形式体现出来。混搭并不鲜见,但这次LV将混搭进行到了极致:运动各式风格的冲撞、意料之外的叠搭、颠覆性的功能……着装不再遵循任何规则。由旧至新、由史无前例到承袭旧作,一一展示。

Fashion model, Fashion, Runway, Fashion show, Clothing, Fashion design, Public event, Event, Footwear, Haute couture,
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Fashion model, Runway, Fashion show, Fashion, Clothing, Dress, Fashion design, Event, Public event, Haute couture,
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Fashion model, Fashion, Runway, Fashion show, Clothing, Haute couture, Street fashion, Spring, Outerwear, Event,
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Runway, Fashion, Fashion model, Fashion show, Clothing, Jeans, Human, Denim, Long hair, Street fashion,
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在这令人眼花缭乱的混搭look中,我们也看到了这一季的重点:功能性面料加入到了整体造型之中,防风面料的夹克薄厚皆有,各种颜色和廓形满足着运动和造型各方面的需求。这也展示了设计师不受规则影响,无拘无束,强调个体个性化和自由化的灵感来源。

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Fashion, Fashion model, Fashion show, Runway, Clothing, Street fashion, Fashion design, Public event, Human, Outerwear,
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抓褶的设计出现在了许多look中,尤其是长裤中,为整体造型增加设计感的同时也有种赛车运动风,让女生们更摩登更独立自信的一面展示出来。

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裙装则大致分为了两类,一类是midi过膝的长度,有赛车女郎意味更浓的运动线条皮裙,也有采取了多种华丽却不艳丽印花的实用款式;

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Fashion, Fashion model, Runway, Clothing, Blue, Street fashion, Fashion show, Cobalt blue, Electric blue, Fashion design,
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另一类则是在LV之前的大秀中就有所出现的短款“蓬蓬裙”,比起过往的设计,这次的短裙层褶都更加复杂细致,蓬度也更加夸张,也因此具有了更好的体现腰身比例的效果,走起路来跳跃而动感。

Fashion, Fashion model, Runway, Fashion show, Clothing, Fashion design, Haute couture, Public event, Event, Dress,
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Fashion model, Fashion, Runway, Fashion show, Clothing, Fashion design, Leather, Haute couture, Shoulder, Outerwear,
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Fashion model, Fashion show, Fashion, Runway, Clothing, Haute couture, Fashion design, Dress, Public event, Event,
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终于推进到姑娘们最期待的配饰部分!这次Nicolas Ghesquière瞄准的“新经典”款式是极具实用性的大包Keepall。这款已经风靡全球的复古旅行袋,这次获得了全新的铜绿色配色和订制款式的包带,整体全新升级,经时间的流逝反而更加体现迷人的魅力。

Fashion accessory, Handbag,
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Hat, Bag, Fashion accessory,
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此外,迷你托特包、小巧奇异的精简化妆包、新配色的小箱子都令人眼前一亮。鞋履方面也展示了一种自由的气质,包括重新设计的靴子,以及令人联想起订制座驾上轮辋的金属结头便鞋、新配色的Archlight运动鞋,都不是可望而不可及的T台秀款,而是能走入你的衣橱的实用鞋履。

Bag, Fashion accessory, Cap,
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这些包包,都是火到现在的“爆款之王”!
其实LV百年历史以来都不缺乏经典款式,Neverfull、Speedy bag都是无数女孩入手的第一支大牌包袋,可Nicolas Ghesquière自2013年接替Marc Jacobs成为女装创意总监后,LV一直在传承经典的基础上进行着革新,皮具部门一再快速增长,一包难求的现象屡屡出现!比如下面这几款,如果你全都买到了,那编辑真的实在不得不服你!
2014年:Petite Malle

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2014年秋冬LV的女装大秀上,这款至今都让很多人疯狂的单品——Petite Malle小硬箱横空出世。

Clothing, Street fashion, Photograph, Leather, Leather jacket, Fashion, Footwear, Jacket, Beauty, Snapshot,
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这款LV新经典手袋,灵感源自银行家Albert Kahn于20世纪初期设计的定制旅行箱,精致而独特的外形,不仅引领“小箱子”成为了各大品牌争相出品的款式,更成为国内外街拍中最人气的包包款式之一。
2015年:LV Twist

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由标志性logo组成“开关”的“扭扭包”—— LV Twist,诞生于 2015 春夏 LV 女装大秀,也是一款至今依然人气高涨的新经典包型。

Clothing, Blue, Thigh, Leg, Purple, Fashion, Sitting, Electric blue, Outerwear, Pink,
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Kaia Gerber for Louis Vuitton "Twist"Spring 2020 Campaign.醒目的logo和实用的容量、丰富的材质和配色,都是她受到广大明星喜爱并长盛不衰的原因。
2018年:小帽箱、飞碟包、恐龙蛋

Clothing, Black, Fashion, Street fashion, Waist, Outerwear, Sleeve, Leather, Textile, Formal wear,
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LV异形包在这一年大放异彩。2018春夏大秀中,乖巧俏皮的圆形PETITE BOITE CHAPEAU一鸣惊人,设计来源于经典的LV帽盒的这款包包颜值超高,装饰能力甚至盖过了实用度,一度热门到需要排队预订等半年以上才能拿到的程度,也开启了圆形手包的风潮。

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飞碟包、恐龙蛋等现在在二手市场都价值很高的包款也在这一时期亮相,有辨识度又有趣的外形,想不吸引人注意都难,是一时风头无两的绝佳出街凹造型配饰。
2019年:Dauphine

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首次出现在LV早春秀场,Dauphine有一个浪漫的中文名字:达芙妮。New Classic系列从此再添一员猛将。这只包包其实是Nicolas Ghesquière在品牌博物馆里乱逛时偶遇的,他在archive款式上进行了更新改进,从此这只新版的“爆款王中王”Dauphine就此诞生。

Action figure, Fictional character, Superhero, Hero, Toy, Batman, Armour, Costume design,
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直到今天,这款包包依旧是处于蹭欧气才能买到的状态。甚至连LV和英雄无敌联名女皇奇亚娜至臻皮肤上,都选择了Dauphine腰包作为配饰,可以说是当家花旦无疑了。
最后想跟大家说,很多人说LV挑人,衣服难穿,其实不然。风格截然不同的女生也总能在LV的衣橱里找到属于自己的时髦装扮。

Long hair, Photography, Black hair,
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一出道便是“高级脸”,眉眼硬朗,轮廓分明,也是钟楚曦对于自己的评价。LV总能激发她“女战士”的一面,复古和现代感在她身上丝毫不显矛盾,看似夸张的廓形们恰到好处显示她的英气,美得气势十足,气场强大。

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也是因为这种“气势”,让钟楚曦屡屡登上LV全球大片,成为亚洲人中的代表面孔。

Clothing, White, Shoulder, Dress, Fashion model, Pink, Neck, Joint, Sleeve, Waist,
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如果你以为LV只适合这种棱角分明的冷美人,那就错啦,性感妩媚如热巴;

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Clothing, Blue, Jeans, Fashion, Beauty, Outerwear, Turquoise, Electric blue, Jacket, Footwear,
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或是早已从“甜心教主”转为气质御姐的杨丞琳,都在LV的设计中找到了属于自己的风格。

Fashion, People, Runway, Street fashion, Human, Facial hair, Fashion show, Event, Beard, T-shirt,
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Louis Vuitton女装创意总监Nicolas Ghesquière在20秋冬大秀后谢幕
Nicolas Ghesquière将这次的秀场看为一个巨大的舞台,这些时代都汇聚在同一个地点。看向看台上的画中人,我们看到的是过去;在观众席上观秀,我们看到的是现在;而画中人看向我们,看到的则是未来。谁是演员?谁是观众?在其实我们都是此时的扮演者。个性为先,相信人人皆可书写自己的历史,正因如此,Louis Vuitton总能一次一次抓住大家的心。那么这次的设计中,最令你心动的是什么呢?

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