为什么别人穿oversize显瘦,我穿就显胖?

在讨论什么衣服比较显瘦的话题里,Oversize可以说得上是一个响当当的名称。它的很多别名“廓形”、“男友风”等都显示出其宽松大码的外表下显瘦显娇小的核心。但很多人表示Oversize的单品还是应了那句“只有颜值高身材好才穿得好看”的魔咒,因为自己一上身就成了球。其实别叹气嘛,干货呈上来,帮你走出误区!

选Oversize的单品,这几点一定要注意!

外套要看袖窿+袖型+袖长

Street fashion, Clothing, Jeans, Fashion, Jacket, Outerwear, Textile, Leather, Long hair, Denim,

首先,正确的Oversize外套袖子一定要宽大,这里说的袖子其实指的是“袖窿”,就是衣服连接袖子的那部分,图中用红线画出。事实证明如果袖窿不够宽大,光有衣身的Oversize是很容易显手臂粗的。

Clothing, Outerwear, Jacket, Street fashion, Jeans, Fashion, Leather, Sleeve, Leather jacket, Coat,

第二,袖子要从肩线下部开始往外扩,而不能过早。所谓肩线就是衣服大身与袖子之间的那条缝合线,一般位于肩膀处,但一般Oversize的外套会是落肩设计(差不多上臂中间的位置),而从这个地方往下开始外膨就能将宽松的感觉下移,既显瘦又不会打扰到肩宽。

Clothing, Outerwear, Fur, Overcoat, Fashion, Street fashion, Coat, Collar, Fur clothing, Jacket,

袖子外扩过早的例子就比如上图左,泰迪绒本身就比较难穿,加上袖子外扩的地方离肩膀太近,就算是落肩的Oversize款也只能变得虎背熊腰;而上图右的问题则在于西装垫肩肩长过宽,除非是巴掌脸的纸片人,一般人是真的谁穿谁膀大。

Street fashion, Fashion, Beauty, Hairstyle, Snapshot, Long hair, Fur, Brown hair, Blond, Outerwear,

Clothing, Street fashion, Jacket, Cool, Fashion, Snapshot, Eyewear, Leather jacket, Leather, Textile,

Sky, Photography, Landscape, Happy, Peach,

第三要看袖长。如果袖长没有过手腕,这件Oversize的衣服劝你放弃。宽松+不够长的袖子绝对是对显瘦的致命打击。放眼大多数ins博主选择的甚至都是过虎口的袖长,干活的时候撸起来形成堆堆袖,满满的保护欲;逛街的时候垂下袖子,袖长过裆,两米腿长。

毛衣还要注意“肩线缝合处”

Fashion, Photography, Street fashion, Tourism, Tree, Sleeve, Travel, Leisure, Style,

如果是毛衣的话,因为比外套贴身,所以还要注意肩线缝合的地方是否会向外凸起(如图所示),当然不排除有些衣服是刻意为之,但就一般体型而言,这个地方凸出的话比较容易显胖,也有损质感。

Yellow, Photography, Door, Drama, Stage, Street fashion, Performing arts, Performance, Costume,

Shoulder, Clothing, Street fashion, Joint, Brown, Beauty, Fashion, Outerwear, Bag, Neck,

White, Clothing, Sitting, Footwear, Street fashion, Fashion, Outerwear, Shoe, Sweater, Leg,

看看几位博主和唐嫣的Oversize毛衣,基本都做到了袖窿大,袖型从肩线下外扩、袖长过手腕几个要点,而且大身与衣袖缝合处非常流畅,这才是合格的Oversize毛衣。

选对了Oversize单品,该如何搭呢?

有松有紧是铁律:紧身裤

Street fashion, Clothing, Fashion, Footwear, Car, Vehicle, Snapshot, Outerwear, Jacket, Luxury vehicle,

Photograph, Street fashion, Clothing, Standing, Fashion, Snapshot, Outerwear, Jacket, Footwear, Jeans,

People, Photograph, Street fashion, Fashion, Snapshot, Jeans, Standing, Outerwear, Street, Human,

说到Oversize单品搭配,最简单也是放之四海而皆准的铁律就是松紧结合。比如Oversize的飞行员夹克,外套既然是宽松款的,那下装就搭配紧身裤,想要拔高腿长的还可以采用鞋裤同色+高跟的方法,“又瘦又高”的魔鬼身材完全可以穿出来。

Clothing, Winter, Brown, Outerwear, Bag, Fashion accessory, Luggage and bags, Jacket, Snow, Street fashion,

Clothing, White, Street fashion, Fashion, Costume, Outerwear, Coat, Dress, Kimono, Formal wear,

Street fashion, Clothing, Fashion, Coat, Footwear, Snapshot, Outerwear, Shoe, Fur, Eyewear,

如果是Oversize的大衣,有些姑娘可能以为扣起扣子可以把裤装遮住就能不用松紧结合了,其实不然,Oversize的大衣需要有一种“空气感”才能显娇小,如果在里面搭了特别宽松的裤子,空间一旦撑死,那就是行走的麻袋没商量。

上松下酷也可以:妈妈裤

Street fashion, Fashion, Snapshot, Human, Jeans, Street, Pedestrian, Outerwear, Photography, Jacket,

有人要问,那我的腿型并没有模特那样的细长直,而且接下去进入十二月想保暖,不想挑那种紧身到裹腿的裤子怎么办?可以!你可以走“上松下酷”的路线,妈妈裤穿起来!

Clothing, Street fashion, Photograph, Fashion, Pink, Jeans, Snapshot, Outerwear, Footwear, Street,

所谓的妈妈裤,这边是指相对来说高腰、较宽松的裤子。它不会显得那么紧身,但又不会特别宽松,而且它往往会在裤脚的地方做一个收拢(如果没有的话可以卷一下裤管)。这样一来,既保证了空间上的富余,也确保了在脚踝处显瘦。加上妈妈裤一般款式偏做旧复古,在风格上也更加具有年代感。

Clothing, Winter, Textile, Outerwear, Jacket, Bag, Wire fencing, Denim, Boot, Mesh,

White, Clothing, Street fashion, Pink, Fashion, Jeans, Footwear, Shoulder, Outerwear, Trousers,

Clothing, White, Street fashion, Neck, Fashion, Shoulder, Snapshot, Waist, Outerwear, Sleeve,

Photograph, Street fashion, Beauty, Snapshot, Sitting, Fashion, Footwear, Outerwear, Photography, Leg,

另一种不得不提的妈妈裤就是萝卜裤,从型格上说萝卜裤更加地具有运动感,也更加随性,你可以蹬一双运动鞋、马丁靴甚至是粗跟皮靴。而从整体上来说,记得一定要把Oversize的毛衣塞进下摆(外套的话就塞内搭),以突出萝卜裤强化腰线弱化胯宽的优势。

说了那么多,对于Oversize单品的选择和搭配,还有什么疑问吗?

撰文:Zhouxiaoting

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