大衣穿不美,是版型没选对!

面对一次又一次的降温和一轮又一轮的购物狂欢,来一件质感上乘的经典大衣总是最值得的投资。不过在你纠结面料和折扣以前,还是先得考虑好自己最适合什么版型。要知道,大衣的风骨一旦对了,修饰身形提升气场通通不在话下!

H

特点:肩线明朗,直筒版型不收腰

风格:利落率性

Clothing, Street fashion, Fashion, Snapshot, Coat, Outerwear, Footwear, Overcoat, Shoulder, Joint,

H型的大衣就是直筒大衣,一气呵成的垂直线条流畅利落,纵向往下的视觉感非常利于显高显瘦。同时,它常伴随双排扣、翻驳领和垫肩,给人呈现出一种英气、俊逸的精英之感,因此个不高和微胖身材的姑娘们很推荐选择。

Clothing, Street fashion, Photograph, Fashion, Coat, Snapshot, Footwear, Outerwear, Overcoat, Boot,

Clothing, Photograph, Street fashion, Fashion, Outerwear, Coat, Overcoat, Snapshot, Photography, Trench coat,

从挑选方面来说,H型大衣一般以“合身”为主,注意袖笼处不要太紧,否则一弯手臂满袖褶皱;同时要注意衣肩不要过大,尤其对于肩宽的人来说,甚至更推荐选择无垫肩的款式。

Street fashion, Clothing, Fashion, Outerwear, Footwear, Retail, Shoe, Trench coat, Coat, Fashion design,

Clothing, Street fashion, Fashion, Red, Outerwear, Coat, Overcoat, Orange, Snapshot, Trench coat,

而从搭配角度来说,因为H型大衣本身很提精神,所以内搭无需太紧身,以免”官气”过重。宽宽松松的卫衣、妈妈裤、背带裤和平底鞋就很好,敞开大衣,反而有种潮而不垮的街头范儿。

Street fashion, Yellow, Clothing, Photograph, Fashion, Outerwear, Snapshot, Dress, Coat, Footwear,

Street fashion, Clothing, Photograph, Fashion, Trench coat, Pink, Coat, Snapshot, Outerwear, Beige,

穿去上班想要内搭更高级些,可以利用阔腿裤、裙装等与H型大衣形成内松外紧,不过有一个要点,就是千万别让内搭把大衣给“撑死”了。没有余量的外套,怎么看都是很显局促的。时尚博主Blair Eadie两番“披衣”出街,一方面更有造型感,一方面也为大衣释放出足够的空间。

A

特点:下摆外扩,肩窄摆宽

风格:减龄活泼

Clothing, Trench coat, Street fashion, Photograph, Coat, Fashion, Snapshot, Outerwear, Brown, Beige,

A型的大衣顾名思义,就是指上图这种下摆往外扩,摆宽>肩宽的大衣版型,梨形党们可以拥有。如果不想显得娃娃感太重,就选择小A字的,在减龄显小鸟腿的基础上又不会太夸张。不过这种大衣不是很推荐165cm一下的姑娘们,廓形下摆会导致重心下坠,有时会有点压个子。

Clothing, Eyewear, Glasses, Sleeve, Coat, Goggles, Outerwear, Collar, Sunglasses, Style,

Tire, Wheel, Motorcycle, Road, Street, Textile, Outerwear, Tartan, Building, Fender,

A字的大衣对整体搭配来说参与感很强,为避免过于甜美,深色系的通常比浅色的更讨喜。另外要注意下装的简单利落,最好是长靴,一步搞定,不拖沓也不复杂。如果再来一顶报童帽和一只牛皮包,说不定还能顿生轻复古的时髦感。

Clothing, Street fashion, Photograph, Red, Coat, Fashion, Outerwear, Snapshot, Footwear, Overcoat,

Street fashion, Clothing, Fashion, Red, Transport, Mode of transport, Snapshot, Vehicle, Outerwear, Footwear,

烟管裤+高跟短靴在气场上也不输,与A字大衣可以在风格上互相补足。注意色彩的配合不要繁杂,要么上下呼应,要么同色系。浪漫系列的大衣,最怕的就是因凌乱而生出的廉价感。

X型:

特点:腰部收腰,遮胯显高

风格:优雅好嫁

Tartan, Fashion, Clothing, Plaid, Street fashion, Fashion model, Shoulder, Pattern, Fashion show, Eyewear,

Clothing, Street fashion, Fashion, Dress, Coat, Outerwear, Eyewear, Waist, Pattern, Tartan,

X型大衣是女人味最足的大衣。因为多了收腰处理,所以看上去比例分明,高挑显瘦。从长度上来说,越短越俏皮,越长越大气,不过如果想要修饰腿型的话建议衣长不要过短,搭配长靴,像何穗这样,冬天一键告别臃肿。

White, Clothing, Street fashion, Fashion, Snapshot, Outerwear, Beige, Coat, Brown, Footwear,

Clothing, Photograph, Street fashion, Blue, Fashion, Coat, Outerwear, Overcoat, Beauty, Snapshot,

及膝的X型大衣是娇小界姑娘们的福音,而且一衣两穿,既有大衣的保暖,又有连衣裙的优雅。下装和鞋履的搭配与A字大衣一样即可,以看上去利索精神最要紧。如果能做到像图中那样裤鞋一色或者鞋衣同色,那高高瘦瘦的窈窕淑女就呼之欲出了!

Street fashion, Clothing, Photograph, Fashion, Coat, Snapshot, Outerwear, Footwear, Turquoise, Overcoat,

Clothing, Street fashion, Fashion, Pink, Outerwear, Red, Fur, Snapshot, Coat, Magenta,

长款的X型大衣则不同,超长的长度打开的是气场,腰带束腰却又帮忙收敛下来,不至于显得太雷厉风行。围上一条长长大大的围巾,为修身的大衣添上足足的暖意,有紧有松就是时髦精本精。

Street fashion, Clothing, Coat, Fashion, Overcoat, Trench coat, Standing, Outerwear, Headgear, Winter,

Clothing, Fur clothing, Fur, Outerwear, Fashion, Overcoat, Coat, Trench coat, Dress, Photography,

如果你是一枚有想法的girl,肯定不会想不到“给直筒大衣添一条腰带就是X型”这招吧!虽然对腰带和搭配有点挑战,但搭得好了也分外出彩。别忘了帽子、发型、 包包也一起跟上节奏。

O型:

特点:落肩/无明显肩线,修饰微胖身形

风格:萌系少女

Fashion model, Clothing, Fashion, Street fashion, Fashion show, Outerwear, Coat, Snapshot, Beige, Overcoat,

O型大衣?叫茧形你可能就熟悉了!O型大衣没有明线的肩线,衣肩一体的设计浑然天成,袖子因为宽松而致的弯曲弧度加上不过膝的衣长和圆润的周身线条,让人在大冬天有想一把抱住的冲动。

White, Clothing, Street fashion, Fashion, Eyewear, Outerwear, Snapshot, Overcoat, Coat, Footwear,

Street fashion, Photograph, Yellow, Fashion, Snapshot, Street, Outerwear, Footwear, Infrastructure, Pedestrian,

O型大衣包容感很强,有助于修饰上半身的身形。而对于这种文艺向的大衣,建议像上两张图中海清和街头潮人那样,搭配中性且上下一色的内搭,给O型有些“软萌”的轮廓带去几分沉稳和历练。

O型加长版:浴袍风大衣

风格:慵懒随性

Clothing, Street fashion, Fashion, Snapshot, Outerwear, Coat, Trench coat, Overcoat, Jacket, Style,

Clothing, Street fashion, Photograph, Fashion, Coat, Snapshot, Trench coat, Outerwear, Fashion model, Footwear,

Clothing, Sleeve, Textile, Joint, Style, Street fashion, Fashion, Fashion model, Grey, Foot,

Clothing, Sleeve, Outerwear, Standing, Coat, Style, Street fashion, Fashion, Street, Grey,

O型加长版的“浴袍式”大衣风靡时尚圈和大街小巷,因为完美融合了O型的柔和线条和H型的纵向垂感,相比起规矩版型的大衣更具摩登气息。宽松的大袖子和下摆不论你穿几层裤子几件毛衣都能有余量,搭配运动鞋或裸靴,虽然慵懒,却极富生命力。

趁冬天才开了一个小头,大衣请务必锁定好版型之后再去挑选,有的放矢才能十拿九稳!

撰文:Zhouxiaoting

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