这个地方选好,你脸最小!

显瘦这件事,看功夫,也看技巧。尤其是天天叠搭出行的冬季,光是内搭的衣领是否衬脸型,就是一个不容小觑的话题。没有巴掌脸尖下巴的姑娘们,来来来一起抱紧本编,我们开始用领子来“换脸”!

圆脸

要挑:有明显纵向线条的领子

Face, Hair, Cheek, Skin, Eyebrow, Nose, Chin, Forehead, Head, Cartoon,

圆脸是所有脸型里萌系指数最高的,因为线条圆润,不会有攻击性和距离感。不过,因为圆脸的脸长与脸宽比较接近,而且常常会有“肉嘟嘟”、“脸很大”的感觉,所以在挑选冬季内搭时,最好选择纵向线条的领型(比如V领、开口领)以及离脸部稍远一些的领子。

V

Hair, Face, Skin, White, Eyebrow, Beauty, Forehead, Head, Chin, Lip,

V领从风格上来说,给人以有棱有角、成熟大气的视觉感。比如向来以圆脸圈粉的赵丽颖,身着圆领毛衣时会让人觉得“非常可爱”,而身着V领衬衫则立刻干练利落起来。放心,这种年龄差并不以老气为代价,而是弱化圆润的曲线,增添气场。

Clothing, Street fashion, Outerwear, Shoulder, Fashion, Blazer, Jacket, Sleeve, Footwear, Neck,

另一方面,V领毛衣、针织衫露出脖颈和锁骨,纵向修饰脸部比例,从显瘦角度来说实力也毋庸置疑。如果作为羽绒服内搭还可以选轻薄一些的款式,效果还要纸片!

Clothing, Outerwear, Shoulder, Jeans, Street fashion, Waist, Fashion, Sweater, Denim, Neck,

Clothing, Street fashion, Photograph, Fashion, Beauty, Snapshot, Outerwear, Fashion model, Waist, Dress,

Clothing, Street fashion, Fashion, Outerwear, Footwear, Jeans, Beige, Overcoat, Coat, Headgear,

知道你会问那脖子冷怎么办?衬衫或是黑白高领打底叠起来!不过要注意一点,无论如何要一定要突出V字的感觉。比如右图模特,虽说打底衫和毛衣同为白色,但毛衣的V领有一圈黑色学院风条纹边,所以不仅不影响,还很有层次。

开口领

Clothing, Street fashion, Outerwear, Fashion, Snapshot, Shoulder, Neck, Plaid, Jacket, Design,

“V领显瘦”这四个字虽然是公认的真理,但说得多了不禁也有人问:难道就没有别的法子了吗?当然有!比如新晋的“开口领”,仅仅使用了一条拉链,就实现了“上下两开花”。立起是高领,下折是翻领,同样是个V,但动感、不规则感、金属感、创意感都打开了新世界的大门。

Clothing, White, Street fashion, Photograph, Fashion, Fur, Snapshot, Yellow, Outerwear, Fur clothing,

Street fashion, Photograph, Clothing, Green, Shoulder, Fashion, Snapshot, Yellow, Footwear, Dress,

如果是毛衣,可以选择那些成分带有马海毛的,轻微的绒感更显别致,不落俗套;如果是卫衣,可以试试一些字母款和直筒裙款,非常地Sporty Chic,给自己一个嗨起来的理由!

离脸部稍远的领子

Clothing, Overcoat, Outerwear, Coat, Street fashion, Fashion, Fur, Jacket, Suit, Blazer,

针对圆脸容易胖容易肿这个问题,在尝试一些诸如卫衣大衣叠穿搭配的时候,建议选择一些领子离脸部较远的内搭,把脸部独立出来,再露出一截脖颈。否则卫衣帽和大衣领的厚重感全部堆积在脸部附近,不看上去圆上加圆也得胖个三斤。

Clothing, Coat, Overcoat, Outerwear, Hood, Sleeve, Fashion, Woolen, Fur, Jacket,

Clothing, Street fashion, Photograph, Fashion, Snapshot, Outerwear, Fashion model, Coat, Footwear, Beauty,

Street fashion, Snapshot, Outerwear, Fashion, Jacket, Photography,

其实从本质上来说,不论是V领、开口领还是这种有一截空气感的卫衣领,都满足了“离脸部较远”且又带有纵向线条感两个条件。所以圆脸们,想要显瘦,这俩法宝攥紧啦!

长脸

要选:有缩短脸长效果的领子

Face, Hair, Cheek, Skin, Eyebrow, Nose, Chin, Head, Cartoon, Forehead,

长脸给人的感觉往往比较成熟睿智。因为脸长大于脸宽气质偏深沉,所以长脸姑娘们更多头疼的不是如何显瘦,而是如何显温婉。就冬天而言,没有比高领内搭更适合的存在啦!除了翻折领,没有天鹅颈的朋友们还可以选择半高领,缩短脸长,活跃气场,分分钟!

长脖:高翻领

Clothing, Lip, Beauty, Cap, Beanie, Fashion, Hat, Headgear, Street fashion, Fashion accessory,

Fur, Clothing, Fashion, Fashion model, Fur clothing, Fashion show, Street fashion, Brown, Outerwear, Coat,

港真高翻领和长脸天鹅颈是一对perfectly matched couple!因为偏长的脸型和纤瘦的脖颈容易显孤傲,而高翻领的高级感却在这种身材上格外奏效。如图两位街拍达人脸型都偏长,但在高翻领的平衡下气质都很典雅,搭配裙装,独立却从容,顺眼!

Photograph, Clothing, Street fashion, Blue, Coat, Fashion, Outerwear, Overcoat, Snapshot, Beauty,

Clothing, Outerwear, Coat, Fashion, Street fashion, Overcoat, Pattern, Jacket, Style, Shoe,

Clothing, White, Outerwear, Beauty, Snapshot, Fashion, Uniform, Sleeve, Blazer, Long hair,

你还可以学李沁玩一玩撞色。例如蓝配红、红配白等,放大天生拥有的纵向线条感,又在色彩搭配中找到属于自己的学问,会搭配,太漂酿!

短脖:半高领

Leather, Clothing, Leather jacket, Jacket, Fashion, Outerwear, Textile, Model, Collar, Fashion model,

Clothing, Street fashion, Fashion, Denim, Outerwear, Snapshot, Jacket, Coat, Jeans, Footwear,

White, Clothing, Outerwear, Fashion, Cool, Jacket, Street fashion, Sleeve, Jeans, Top,

Clothing, Street fashion, Pink, Fashion, Yellow, Snapshot, Outerwear, Footwear, Street, Magenta,

而对脖颈没有太多信心的长脸姑娘们来说,活泼的半高领就是你最贴心的好朋友!而且最近的时尚大片也越来越宠这个领子界的新秀,有高领的走势,没有翻折的复杂,也没有全覆盖的局促,半露半遮,修饰脸修饰脖子,卫衣毛衣皆适用,好看到词穷!

横向领

Clothing, Shoulder, Street fashion, Fashion, Dress, Beauty, Footwear, Eyewear, Fashion model, Snapshot,

Clothing, Street fashion, Footwear, Jeans, Fashion, Outerwear, Snapshot, Boot, Leg, Shoe,

Street fashion, Clothing, Photograph, Fashion, Footwear, Snapshot, Shoe, Jeans, Outerwear, Street,

对于长脸来说,除了高领,任何有横向线条的领子也都可以尝试,比如一字领、不规则翻领等等,如果担心冷可以选择上图这种不用露肩的,线条感简单,但不会撞衫。

方脸/宽脸

要选:有柔和化效果的领子

Face, Hair, Skin, Nose, Cheek, Eyebrow, Chin, Facial expression, Head, Forehead,

很多人认为自己是方脸不好看,但其实方脸饱满而自信的骨相是非常吸引人的。只要衣品到位,棱角分明的面部轮廓可以成就无数高级而富有张力的时髦look。在领子选择上,可以和圆脸一样选择V领,也可以选择有些柔化效果的堆堆领、大圆领。

堆堆领

Clothing, Orange, Shoulder, Neck, Outerwear, Sweater, Sleeve, Pattern, Textile, Pattern,

Clothing, White, Street fashion, Neck, Shoulder, Waist, Fashion, Snapshot, Sportswear, Sleeve,

Child model, Photography, Window,

White, Street fashion, Fashion, Clothing, Photograph, Snapshot, Eyewear, Street, Outerwear, Jeans,

堆堆领指的就是这种刻意做大,上身后会有些垂感的领子。因为每次穿着受力不一,领型会出现各种不固定的形态。然而就是这种随性而温柔的感觉,特别适合方脸们御寒过冬。如果害怕风会漏进去,可以搭配一条丝巾,更显优雅气韵。

V领(根据肩宽)

Clothing, Outerwear, Neck, Sleeve, Hood, Cardigan, Sweater, Jacket, Top, Fashion,

方脸姑娘们可以尝试V领。不过在选择V领时注意一下这个V字开口的宽窄程度。角度太小会在视觉上增加肩宽,如果不想要膀大腰圆即视感的话还是选择右图这种接近直角的,袖子再选得宽松些,以柔和感转移掉他人对于“脸方”的注意力。

大圆领:无帽卫衣/罗纹领

Street fashion, White, Clothing, Snapshot, Beauty, Fashion, Hairstyle, Orange, Footwear, Costume,

Clothing, Street fashion, Fashion, Green, Fashion model, Turquoise, Outerwear, Footwear, Fur, Sweater,

Street fashion, White, Photograph, Clothing, Fashion, Jeans, Footwear, Snapshot, Outerwear, Shoulder,

Clothing, Street fashion, Outerwear, Fashion, Sweater, Sleeve, Shoulder, Neck, Photography, Top,

圆领是非常适合方脸的,因为线条感可以互补平衡。只是圆领的领子需要稍微考究一些,否则经洗涤收纳后变形就没有质感了。在此推荐选择比较宽大的罗纹领,像唐艺昕、超模 Caroline Schurch这种,不仅能和各种涡纹、费尔岛图案完美兼容,还很大气复古,比一圈小圆领来得时髦多了!

认真脸,用三斤修容粉,不如换一个内搭领!

撰文:Zhouxiaoting

图片来源:视觉中国、东方ic、instagram、allaboutvision.com

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