ELLE编辑衣橱|穿羽绒服的路上,我遇到了以下几个问题

有人说,除非气温逼人,否则拒绝肿,拒绝土,拒绝羽绒服;也有人说,美丽不冻人只是个传说,大冬天还是求生欲要紧。那么!ELLE编辑衣橱今天再次开张,对症下药,从挑到搭一次搞定!

羽绒服遇到的问题一:气质一言难尽?

Clothing, Fur, Fur clothing, Street fashion, Fashion, Outerwear, Footwear, Coat, Dress, Overcoat,

啧啧啧……上面这些,大概就是你对羽绒服的固定印象?大概每个人的衣橱里都曾有过一两件“乍一看修身轻薄挑不出错,一上身除了保暖哪哪都不大对劲”的羽绒服吧!车缝线多而密,面料自带反光,一弯手都是褶子,还附有一圈贴心的贵妇毛领和一个加厚加粗的腰带……总之,风格成迷。

流行趋势一:滑雪/迷彩,活力动感

Snow, Winter, Ice, Recreation, Ski Equipment, Fun, Ski, Winter sport, Geological phenomenon, Glacial landform,

Street fashion, Yellow, Snapshot, Fashion, Outerwear, Workwear, Jeans, Jacket, Overcoat, Coat,

White, Photograph, Street fashion, Clothing, Fashion, Snapshot, Beauty, Footwear, Uniform, Photography,

第一个要点名夸的,就是保暖领域里的究极武器——滑雪衫,最近它带着泰斗级的御寒力度,从雪山胜地一路红到了大街小巷。看看钟楚曦、时尚大咖Caro Daur还有街头潮人身上这几件,长得可谓是非常地有潜能。拼色多而不俗,可叠可单穿;简单直线条,更没有紧成粽子一样的车缝线,搭配卫衣牛仔裤老爹鞋针织帽,一身运动滑雪look在都市里行走,极具动感元气!

Photograph, Street fashion, Street, Snapshot, Jeans, Fashion, Beauty, Standing, Footwear, Pedestrian,

Photograph, Clothing, Street fashion, Snapshot, Jacket, Jeans, Fashion, Standing, Outerwear, Footwear,

从野地里捕捉到的一件“迷彩”羽绒服也让半个时尚圈抬起了眉毛,尤其在被妈妈辈的名媛风收腰羽绒服洗脑之后,这种军事风格的羽绒服显得更加不拘一格。一反冬季的全民慵懒风潮,迷彩羽绒服搭配短靴让人时刻感到100%的动力值,就算是阴天也能照样蹦跶。

编辑示范(插播,我们拍的时候忘记带打底裤袜,不要学!记得穿了再出门!):

时装编辑Valeria:“以滑雪运动为灵感的Sportmax羽绒服全体都太让人想涌有了!超短款再也不担心没有腰,还能把腿拉长两米!”

时装编辑Kylin:“羽绒背心超有运动感,但也不能太亏待我的小细胳膊!叠搭一件超薄的优衣库羽绒服,暖上加暖再合适不过!”

Purple, Costume, Fun, Outerwear, Cosplay,

Valeria:

绿色超短羽绒服 SPORTMAX

紫色卫衣裙 MASHAMA

白色漆皮踝靴 Holyrape x C+plus SERIES

Kylin:

漆光羽绒马甲 SPORTMAX

U系列高级轻型羽绒服 Uniqlo

拼色抽绳连衣裙 C+plus SERIES

黑色叶片跟短靴 LOEWE

时装编辑Kylin:“复古风狂挂,羽绒服也不能幸免。运动感女人味兼具的搭配get起来,才是整条街最时髦的仔!”

Clothing, Green, Blue, Turquoise, Fashion, Outerwear, Shoulder, Sleeve, Teal, Jacket,

人字条纹羽绒服 Yuzhe Studios

黑色镂肩连体衣 NIKE

卡其半裙 DOUBLOVE

白色叶片跟短靴 LOEWE

流行趋势二:小众款、设计感

Red, Street fashion, Clothing, Photograph, Jeans, Fashion, Jacket, Snapshot, Outerwear, Coat,

面料里带个“皮”字的羽绒服必须是酷字当头没得说,而且漆皮、皮草本身的质感加上羽绒看上去价格都要翻一番。它们与牛仔裤、运动裤等休闲挂的下装都是极为出彩的组合,建议敞开穿着,出门双手插兜,帅而不语最撩人。

Photograph, Clothing, Outerwear, Street fashion, Fashion, Hood, Jacket, Coat, Photography, Fur,

Red, Clothing, Outerwear, Jacket, Hood, Fashion, Zipper, Sleeve, Coat, Leather jacket,

哑光的皮革羽绒服也同样值得投资,它的光泽或许不似皮草和漆皮亮眼,但却低调得很有个性。而且现在许多品牌都采取仿皮面料,给足质感和高级感的同时也做到了环保。

Outerwear, Jacket, Fictional character, Black hair,

流行是当下的,但艺术灵感是无限的。羽绒服作为寒冷地区的人气之王,当然也是服装设计师们的大放异彩的舞台。有些设计师款款华丽丽地走向了普罗大众,比如太空色、渐变色、涡纹、法式印花、解构风格等等。

比如以专业户外运动装备起家的法国羽绒服品牌Moncler就与英国新锐设计师品牌Simone Rocha合作了几款重工羽绒“战袍”,灵感来源于维多利亚时期的登山者穿搭,缀以花卉亮片和褶边刺绣,柔美中流露着一丝不着边际,你既可以解释为浪漫,又可以解释为不羁。就冲这画风,想象力都提升了好几个层面。

编辑示范:

时装编辑Valeria:“日常不敢挑战的荧光色在一片黑白灰的冬天正好杀出重围,搭配窄窄的下装和瘦瘦的内搭,请叫我时髦的救火队员。”

Clothing, Yellow, Orange, Outerwear, Raincoat, Overcoat, Coat, Jacket, Trench coat, Long hair,

荧光色羽绒服 PortsV

灰色高领针织衫 FENDI

金属耳环 Chanel

时装编辑Kylin:“特殊面料的羽绒服还要加上毛线这一款!看上去比一般羽绒服又温柔加温暖了一截。不过,容易勾线,粗心党要小心啊!”

Skin, Nose, Pink, Fur, Cheek, Winter, Facial hair, Smile, Outerwear, Child,

拼色针织羽绒服 PH5 from Lane Crawford

ALASKAN羊绒防风帽 LORO PIANA

羽绒服问题二:一着不慎穿成球?

Clothing, Black, Street fashion, Outerwear, Coat, Fashion, Jacket, Sleeve, Blazer, Dress,

羽绒服面临的第二个问题,就是肿,正常体型也会穿成球的肿。上图为同一人的冬夏穿搭,明明在夏天是一枚妥妥的小腰精,冬天羽绒服一套就成了两百斤的球。你要问,这不是最流行的Oversize面包服吗!怎么也踩雷呢?

Clothing, Outerwear, Fashion, Street fashion, Jacket, Coat, Fur, Overcoat, Parka, Hood,

其实,万事都要拿捏一个度。宽松不意味着膨胀,也不意味着不挑人。每个人适合什么样的羽绒服版型,还是要上身试过才知道。不过就趋势而言,那种刻意收腰的、弧线往下的可以暂且缓一缓,先试试那些衣身直线条、袖子略宽松的Oversize款,我们分长短来说。

选款趋势一:短款合身感

Jeans, Denim, Standing, Footwear, Shoe, Trousers, Outerwear, Jacket, Electric blue,

Street fashion, Clothing, Yellow, Jeans, Fashion, Snapshot, Outerwear, Jacket, Denim, Footwear,

短款不过膝的羽绒服可以宽松,但不能松到塌,松到肿,否则一来压个子,二来没精神。放眼街拍中模特潮人们喜爱的短款羽绒服,往往只是版型略有空间,整体还是利落简洁的。但因为短款衣身的线条走势相较长款而言不那么明显,所以有想入短款的朋友们,不妨以“是否合身”为考量标准。

编辑推荐:

时装编辑Valeria:“内外温差大的聚会场合,长裙+羽绒服是救命良方!这件羽绒服有着镭射光外表,穿上就是酷盖,脱了就是可以温暖的(北方)室内可以穿的衣服啦。”

Outerwear, Dress, Fashion design, Costume,

黑色漆皮羽绒服 Les Fées de Lan

红色镂空连衣裙 MONSE from Joyce

漆皮靴子 Jeffery Campbell

时装编辑Kylin:“短款羽绒服不能臃肿但可以宽松,选择是不适宜选择过于软绵的材质,我选择的这两件格纹就是硬挺厚实的版型,穿上不塌!”

Clothing, Outerwear, Pattern, Pattern, Design, Sleeve, Footwear, Trousers, Jeans, Shoe,

棕色格纹拼接羽绒服(左) Moncler

格纹衬衫式羽绒服(右) IMMI

格纹卷边阔腿裤 C+plus SERIES

老爹运动鞋 Fila

选款趋势二:长款线条感

Clothing, Street fashion, Photograph, Fashion, Snapshot, Outerwear, Coat, Jacket, Footwear, Fur,

Clothing, Street fashion, Fashion, Cobalt blue, Electric blue, Snapshot, Beanie, Outerwear, Turquoise, Headgear,

Street fashion, Snapshot, Fashion, Footwear, Standing, Outerwear, Human, Shoe, Overcoat, Street,

Clothing, Jacket, Outerwear, Hood, Jeans, Denim, Parka, Coat, Leather, Fur,

长款过膝的羽绒服则需要注意一下衣身的线条感。建议袖子可以廓形一些,但衣身最好还是直线向下的,视觉上更有利于显瘦显气场。另一方面,不论是长款还是短款,车缝线从侧面看最好不要波浪感太重,平滑些才更有质感哦~

编辑示范:

时装编辑Kylin:“长款羽绒服确实不能选择波浪感太重的款式,实在太容易变成蚕宝宝或者阿依莲,这件Short Sentence的羽绒服车线密度刚刚好,里面的运动装更平衡了白色的淑女感。”

Clothing, Blue, White, Uniform, Costume, Knee, Leg, Fashion, Footwear, Outerwear,

白色羽绒服 Short Sentence

蓝色反光条衬衫 Heron Preston from JOYCE

黑色镂肩连体衣、竖条纹运动袜、AIR MAX运动鞋 NIKE

时装编辑Valeria:“长到地的羽绒服保暖首选,但怎么穿才能不像一个桶?从领子入手,加入叠穿细节!滑雪感羽绒背心和真丝衬衫的内搭相加也是Athleisure风的体现哦!”

Clothing, White, Outerwear, Pajamas, Uniform, Nightwear, Sleeve,

Clothing, Orange, Shoulder, Outerwear, Neck, Blazer, Sleeve, Formal wear, Joint, Waist,

红色运动感羽绒背心 SPORTMAX

超长羽绒外套 Alexander Wang from Lane Crawford

粉色丝质衬衫 DOUBLOVE

宽松西装裤 TIBI from Lane Crawford

白色漆皮踝靴 Holyrape x C+plus SERIES

附加彩蛋:

你以为羽绒材质只能用来打造笨重的外套?错!以下这些羽绒小物,你也可以试试看呀!

时装编辑Kylin:“冻啥不能冻着头!羽绒帽一轻便二保暖三能凹造型,一举三得值得拥有。”

White, Clothing, Jeans, Leg, Leggings, Fashion, Footwear, Denim, Shoe, Tights,

粉色花朵羽绒帽 Chanel

印花羽绒服、印花T恤 均来自 FENDI

泡泡鞋 DOUBLOVE

时装编辑Valeria:“连包包都罩上了羽绒外套,从头到脚加配饰我都照顾好了,妈妈再也找不到地方念我了。”

Clothing, Fashion, Leg, Fashion design, Textile, Outerwear, Costume,

红色运动感羽绒服 Adidas

蓝色印花高领衫 MASHAMA

灰色文理阔腿裤 COMME MOI form Lane Crawford

Iside bag 配手袋羽绒外套 Valextra

还在被羽绒服耽误美貌的你,还不快来一起重新规划一下时髦路线?

图片来源:东方ic、视觉中国、instagram

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